Reviewed: The Royal Oak at Cerne Abbas

The Royal Oak at Cerne Abbas, built in 1540.

WITH A THATCHED roof and ivy all round the door, The Royal Oak at Cerne Abbas looks the archetypal English pub – reproduced on countless postcards of this wonderfully atmospheric and ancient Dorset village.

Landlord Brendan Malone hails from Dublin and welcomes all his customers like old friends. He ran the Hunter’s Moon, down the road at Middlemarsh, for a lot of years, so knows many of his local customers.

Today there is only Badger First Gold on handpump, the delivery from brewers Hall & Woodhouse comes tomorrow, when there will be Tanglefoot and Pickled Partridge. I was sorry not to sample the spicy Pickled Partridge – Badger’s winter ale – the best of the seasonals.

Part carpeted and part stoneflagged, The Royal Oak’s extraordinary interior is made-up of three interconnecting rooms, defined by the low black beams and whitewashed stone walls. “Built in 1540″ proclaims the sign outside and The Royal Oak is a real time capsule – comfortable and warming.

As the open fire crackles behind us, keeping out the chilly November wind, we scan the menu and the specials board by the bar. My eyes light-up, seeing local venison and Badger ale casserole – I’m a big lover of game and Brendan is supplied by game expert Margaret Ralph – a recommendation in itself.

The casserole comes with mashed potato and vegetables. The sauce is superb and the cubes of tender venison really melt in my mouth. My wife Joan chose the warm chicken and bacon salad, a nice combination for a cold day. Our old friend Lil joined us for lunch and went for scampi. I had to help her out with the last few nuggets, so I know how tasty they were! Lil’s huge home-made chips were more like potato wedges, thick and crisp.

The menu shows variety and enterprise.

There was also baked gilthead bream, duck breast, pork loin, rack of lamb and minted lamb, amongst other delights, all served with a distinctive sauce.

Brendan Malone has brought the successful formula of the Hunter’s Moon to Cerne Abbas. An incredible array of knick-knacks hangs from the ceiling and on the walls. There are cups, jugs, brass candlesticks and many old photographs of this venerable 470 year old pub. The entrance from the street is level and disabled friendly.

Deliberating from the orgy of puddings is difficult, but I opt for bread and butter pudding, a great favourite of mine.

I was not disappointed by the soft textured treat, brimming with smooth hot custard. The girls agreed on mixed ice cream, three scoops of delightful flavour.

I enjoyed another pint of Badger First Gold as we contemplated leaving the warm oasis of The Royal Oak for the cold world outside. I ventured into the rear beer garden, not surprisingly deserted in November! The charming landlord wished us a good journey home and expressed the hope we would call again. We most certainly will.

Michel Hooper-Immins belongs to the British Guild of Beer Writers, whose members share “a love of beer and a desire to see its virtues communicated more effectively.” He is a leading member of CAMRA’s Wessex division, and his name can often be found in The Good Pub Guide.